So, does natural hair dye actually exist? Here’s everything you need to know (2024)

Clean beauty is everywhere in the makeup, hair, and skin space right now. Think everything from natural deodorant to organic sunscreens lining the drugstore cosmetic aisles and Amazon. And, folks, a new, clean-friendly product has entered the market: Natural at-home hair dye. But before you start conjuring images of dyes that don’t contain any toxins, chemicals, or harsh ingredients, we gotta break it to you: that doesn’t actually exist. Yup, sorry. Unless you’re dyeing your hair with henna or literal plants (like beet juice or carrot juice), active chemical ingredients will be in your hair dye formula to allow them to work.

Still, that doesn’t mean you automatically have to settle. There are a tonne of hair dyes that are free of ammonia, alcohol, and p-phenylenediamine (PPD, a chemical that helps open up your hair cuticle to let the dye in). These ingredients aren't bad or dangerous but they can be harsh.

PPD, for example, "is a common cause of allergic and irritant contact dermatitis of the scalp," says dermatologist Karan Lal, MD, while ammonia and alcohol can dry out your hair cuticle and skin. So if you want to limit potential irritants and buy a one-and-done hair dye, we've got what you need to know, the best ones on the market, because we consulted Dr. Lal as well as experts, Patty Slattery, Cynthia Alvarez and Meri Kate O’Connor, below.

Is there a hair dye without chemicals?

Sorry, hair dye without any chemicals is just not a thing (again, unless you’re working with henna or straight-up plant juice). Dye will always require some chemical-based ingredients to help deposit pigment onto your hair. That being said, you can get hair dye that’s made without alcohol, ammonia, or PPD if you want something less harsh, but still want to get in on all the newest hair colour trends.

Are natural hair dyes still effective?

Yes, natural hair dyes are still effective—they're just made with gentler, plant-based formulas to help satisfy your clean itch. "You can do everything with an ammonia-free dye that you usually can with ammonia-containing dye,” celebrity hairstylist Meri Kate O’Connor told Cosmopolitan, adding that these dyes are usually less drying and damaging, especially if you dye your hair often.

What supplies do you need to dye your hair at home?

Some at-home hair dye kits include accessories like brushes and plastic gloves but it's always good to have some on hand before you get started, especially if you're worried about staining your skin. Dr. Lal also recommends petroleum jelly, like Vaseline, to protect your face from the dye. "Use this along the hairline to prevent hair dye from getting on your face or hairline," he says.

Another tip? Wash your hair two days before dyeing. "The oils on your scalp and hair will help naturally lubricate your scalp and hair," Dr. Lal says, adding that you should always do a patch test before getting started. And don't forget: "Oil your hair or condition ASAP after dyeing."

What to look for in a natural hair dye

Gentle ingredients

Once again, for the ppl in the back: All hair dyes include some chemicals, because that’s what’s required to give your hair a semi-permanent or permanent colour change. But there are a few things to keep in mind if you want to keep it as natural as possible: Look for dyes made with moisturising and protective oils, along with formulas free of alcohol, ammonia, and PPD. These three ingredients can not only dry out hair but potentially lead to skin irritation, so if you see it anywhere on the box and you’re sensitive, just put it back and keep on lookin’.

The coverage

If you're still a little unclear on the difference between permanent, semi-permanent, and demi-permanent hair dyes, here's the basics: With semi-permanent dyes, “there’s no developer, there’s no hydrogen peroxide—the colour just sits on the hair’s surface for about 15 washes,” Patty Slattery, AVP of hair colour education, training and testing at L'Oréal Paris, told Cosmo. Demi-permanent dye washes out after three to four weeks and is "great for people who want to amp up their existing colour, like making chestnut-brown hair richer and shinier," added Slattery. Neither semi-, demi- or glosses are great at covering greys, so if that's your main goal, choose a permanent hair dye instead, which "penetrates deep into the cortex of your hair." Permanent dyes, on the other hand, will last more or less forever – until you, ofc, cut or re-dye your locks.

Semi > Demi > Permanent

The amount

K, this one sounds obvious, but "almost every person underestimates the thickness of their hair," celebrity hairstylist Cynthia Alvarez told Cosmo. So check the instructions on how much dye you'll need before you walk out of the store and if you're on the fence, pick up an extra box of dye in case. "You don't want to be left with a section of hair that's not coloured due to lack of product," she warned.

And with that, keep scrolling to find the full list of natural hair dyes to maintain, tone or tint your hair...